Leopard Gecko Care Guide

The leopard gecko is one of the most popular pet reptiles in the world, and for good reason. These charming, spotted lizards are hardy, docile, and relatively easy to care for, making them ideal for first-time reptile keepers and experienced hobbyists alike. Unlike many other geckos, leopard geckos have eyelids and cannot climb smooth surfaces, giving them unique behaviors and care requirements. Native to the arid regions of Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India, they have adapted to thrive in dry, rocky environments with temperature extremes.

Whether you're considering your first leopard gecko or looking to refine your care techniques, this complete guide covers everything you need to know about housing, feeding, health, and enjoying these remarkable lizards for their potential 15-20 year lifespan.

Species Overview

Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) belong to the family Eublepharidae, which are sometimes called "eyelid geckos" because unlike most gecko species, they possess movable eyelids. In the wild, they inhabit rocky, dry grasslands and desert areas where they shelter in burrows and crevices during the day, emerging at dusk and dawn to hunt insects.

Adult leopard geckos typically reach 7-10 inches in total length, with males being slightly larger and heavier than females. Their bodies are covered in distinctive leopard-like spots that vary in color and pattern depending on the morph. Wild-type leopard geckos display yellow or tan base colors with dark brown or black spots, but decades of selective breeding have produced hundreds of color morphs ranging from pure white to deep tangerine.

One of the most fascinating features of leopard geckos is their detachable tail, which they can drop (autotomy) when threatened by predators. The tail stores fat reserves and serves as an energy backup during lean times. While the tail will regenerate if lost, the new tail will be shorter, stubbier, and lack the original pattern.

Leopard geckos are primarily insectivorous, feeding on a variety of live insects in captivity. They are crepuscular, meaning they are most active during twilight hours of dawn and dusk. This natural behavior makes them excellent pets for people who work during the day, as your gecko will be most active when you're home in the evening.

Is a Leopard Gecko Right for You?

Before bringing home a leopard gecko, it's important to evaluate whether this species fits your lifestyle and expectations. Leopard geckos are often marketed as low-maintenance pets, and while they are certainly easier than many reptiles, they still require daily care, proper equipment, and long-term commitment.

Pros of keeping leopard geckos:

• Docile temperament and rarely bite
• Small size makes them manageable and housing affordable
• Don't require large enclosures or expensive UVB lighting setups
• Hardy and forgiving of minor husbandry mistakes
• Available in hundreds of stunning color morphs
• Long lifespan provides years of companionship
• Quiet and odorless when enclosure is maintained properly
• Can recognize their owner and develop individual personalities

Cons and considerations:

• Require live insects, which must be purchased regularly and gut-loaded
• Need precise temperature control with heating equipment
• Can live 15-20 years, requiring long-term commitment
• Veterinary care can be expensive if health issues arise
• Should be housed individually, so multiple geckos mean multiple setups
• Not cuddly pets; handling should be limited to avoid stress
• Tail loss can occur if gecko is stressed or improperly handled

If you're looking for a hands-off display animal that's fascinating to observe and occasionally handle, the leopard gecko is an excellent choice. They're significantly easier than bearded dragon care, which requires larger enclosures and UVB lighting, but they're not quite as interactive as beardies can be.

Habitat Setup

Creating the proper habitat is the foundation of successful leopard gecko keeping. While leopard geckos don't require elaborate setups, getting the basics right will ensure your gecko thrives for decades.

Enclosure Size and Type

A 20-gallon long tank (30" x 12" x 12") is the minimum recommended size for one adult leopard gecko. Bigger is always better if you have the space, and a 40-gallon breeder tank provides excellent floor space for enrichment. Leopard geckos are terrestrial and don't climb, so floor space is more important than height.

Glass aquariums are the most popular choice because they hold heat well, provide clear viewing, and are easy to find. Plastic tubs can work for breeders managing multiple animals, but they don't provide the aesthetic appeal or visibility of glass. Front-opening enclosures are ideal because they're less stressful for your gecko than reaching down from above.

Never house multiple male leopard geckos together, as they will fight viciously. While females can sometimes cohabitate, most experts recommend housing all leopard geckos individually to prevent stress, competition for food, and potential injuries.

Substrate Options

Substrate choice is one of the most debated topics in leopard gecko care. The safest options, especially for juveniles, are non-loose substrates:

• Paper towels: The safest option, easy to clean, allows you to monitor feces and urates. Not aesthetically pleasing but ideal for quarantine and young geckos.
• Ceramic tile: Attractive, helps file down nails naturally, easy to clean and sanitize. Can be cut to fit your tank perfectly.
• Reptile carpet: Reusable and looks natural, but can snag claws and harbor bacteria if not cleaned frequently.

Avoid these substrates:

• Sand (including calcium sand): High impaction risk, especially for juveniles
• Wood chips or shavings: Can cause impaction and respiratory irritation
• Walnut shell: Sharp particles can cause impaction and intestinal damage

Some experienced keepers use naturalistic loose substrates like excavator clay or topsoil/sand mixes for adult geckos, but these carry impaction risk if the gecko accidentally ingests substrate while hunting. Stick with solid substrates unless you have significant experience.

Hides and Enrichment

Leopard geckos are secretive animals and require at least three hides:

1. Warm hide: Placed over or near the heat source
2. Cool hide: Placed on the cool side of the tank
3. Humid hide: Filled with damp sphagnum moss to aid shedding

Hides should be snug enough that the gecko feels secure but not so tight they get stuck. Commercial reptile caves work well, or you can use overturned plastic containers with entrance holes cut out.

Add additional enrichment like rocks, branches (even though they don't climb much, they enjoy different levels), and artificial plants. Just ensure all decorations are secure and won't topple if your gecko burrows underneath.

Water and Food Dishes

Provide a shallow, sturdy water dish at all times. Change the water daily as leopard geckos sometimes defecate in their water. The dish should be heavy enough that it won't tip over easily.

Keep a small dish of pure calcium powder (without D3) available at all times. This allows your gecko to self-regulate calcium intake, which is especially important for breeding females.

Temperature and Lighting

Proper temperature gradients are absolutely critical for leopard gecko health. As ectotherms (cold-blooded animals), they rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature for digestion, immune function, and overall metabolism.

Temperature Requirements

Your enclosure must provide a thermal gradient:

• Basking surface temperature: 88-92°F (measure with temperature gun on the surface directly above the heat source)
• Warm side ambient: 85-88°F
• Cool side ambient: 75-80°F
• Nighttime: 65-75°F (room temperature is usually fine)

Never let temperatures drop below 65°F or exceed 94°F, as both extremes can be dangerous.

Heating Equipment

The best heat sources for leopard geckos are:

• Under-tank heater (UTH): Heat mat placed under one side of the tank, controlled by a thermostat. This is the most popular method.
• Heat cable: Can be arranged in custom patterns for precise heat zones
• Ceramic heat emitter (CHE): Provides overhead heat without light, useful for larger enclosures or if additional heat is needed
• Deep heat projector (DHP): Provides infrared heat that penetrates deeper, mimicking natural sun warmth

Always use a thermostat to control your heat source. Unregulated heat mats can easily overheat and burn your gecko or start a fire. Digital thermostats with probes are inexpensive and essential safety equipment.

Avoid heat rocks, as they can cause severe burns. Also avoid relying solely on overhead basking bulbs, as leopard geckos absorb heat best through their belly.

Monitoring Temperature

Use multiple thermometers to monitor both sides of the tank:

• Digital thermometers with probes (more accurate than analog stick-on thermometers)
• Infrared temperature gun (essential for measuring surface temperatures)

Check temperatures daily and adjust your thermostat seasonally as room temperature changes.

Lighting

Leopard geckos are crepuscular and do not require UVB lighting to survive, but recent research suggests low-level UVB (5.0 or 2% output) can improve calcium metabolism, activity levels, and overall health. Many modern keepers provide UVB lighting for 10-12 hours per day as a best practice.

If you choose not to provide UVB, you must dust feeder insects with calcium + D3 supplements, as leopard geckos cannot synthesize vitamin D3 without UVB exposure.

Provide a consistent day/night cycle of roughly 12 hours light and 12 hours darkness. Visible light can come from UVB bulbs, low-wattage LED lights, or simply ambient room lighting.

Humidity and Water

Leopard geckos come from arid environments and thrive in low humidity conditions, quite different from tropical species that require high humidity.

Humidity Levels

Maintain ambient humidity between 30-40%. This low humidity range prevents respiratory infections and skin issues. You can measure humidity with a digital hygrometer placed at mid-level in the enclosure.

Most household environments naturally provide appropriate humidity levels. If your room is too humid (above 50%), improve ventilation or use a dehumidifier. If too dry (below 25%), lightly mist one side of the tank occasionally, but avoid making the entire enclosure damp.

Humid Hide for Shedding

While the general enclosure should stay dry, provide a humid hide filled with damp sphagnum moss. This microclimate gives your gecko a high-humidity retreat during shedding.

Check the moss every few days and re-dampen as needed. Replace the moss monthly or whenever it becomes soiled. The humid hide is critical for preventing stuck shed, especially on toes and tail tip where constricted shed can cut off circulation.

Water

Always provide fresh water in a shallow dish. Leopard geckos don't drink frequently, but they need constant access to clean water. Some geckos rarely drink visible water because they obtain moisture from their insect prey, but a water source must always be available.

Change water daily and clean the dish with reptile-safe disinfectant weekly.

Diet and Feeding

Leopard geckos are insectivores with hearty appetites. Providing a varied diet of properly gut-loaded and supplemented insects is key to long-term health.

Feeder Insects

Appropriate staple feeders include:

• Dubia roaches: Excellent nutrition, long-lived, don't smell or make noise
• Crickets: Readily available, affordable, good nutrition when gut-loaded
• Mealworms: Convenient, widely available, can be kept in the refrigerator
• Black soldier fly larvae: High calcium content, excellent nutritional profile

Treat insects (feed sparingly due to high fat content):

• Waxworms: Fatty, use only as occasional treats or to entice sick geckos
• Hornworms: High moisture content, good for hydration
• Superworms: Larger than mealworms, good for adult geckos, but high in fat

Never feed insects caught from outside, as they may carry parasites or pesticides. All feeder insects should be appropriately sized—no larger than the space between your gecko's eyes.

Gut-Loading Feeders

Gut-loading means feeding your insects nutritious foods 24-48 hours before offering them to your gecko. The nutrition in the insect's gut transfers to your gecko when consumed.

Good gut-loading foods include:

• Commercial gut-load powder
• Leafy greens (collard greens, dandelion greens)
• Carrots, sweet potato, squash
• High-quality grain-based foods

Avoid feeding insects only potatoes or low-nutrition foods like iceberg lettuce.

Supplementation Schedule

Proper supplementation prevents metabolic bone disease and other nutritional deficiencies:

• Calcium without D3: Available in a small dish 24/7 for self-regulation
• Calcium with D3: Dust feeders lightly 2x per week
• Multivitamin with vitamin A: Dust feeders lightly 1x per week

If you provide UVB lighting, you can reduce calcium+D3 supplementation to once per week, as your gecko will synthesize D3 naturally.

To dust insects, place them in a small container with powder and shake gently until lightly coated. Don't over-supplement, as excess vitamins can be harmful.

Feeding Schedule

• Hatchlings (0-4 months): Feed daily, as many appropriately-sized insects as they'll eat in 15 minutes
• Juveniles (4-12 months): Feed every other day, 5-8 insects per feeding
• Adults (12+ months): Feed 2-3 times per week, 6-10 insects per feeding

Adjust portions based on your gecko's body condition. A healthy leopard gecko should have a plump tail (fat storage) and visible but not protruding hip bones. Overfeeding leads to obesity, while underfeeding causes weight loss and weakened immunity.

Remove uneaten insects after 15-20 minutes, as loose crickets can stress or even bite your gecko while it sleeps.

Health and Common Issues

Leopard geckos are hardy when properly cared for, but like all reptiles, they can develop health problems if husbandry is inadequate or they're exposed to parasites and pathogens.

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

MBD is caused by calcium deficiency, vitamin D3 deficiency, or improper calcium:phosphorus ratios. Symptoms include:

• Bowed or curved legs
• Soft or rubbery jaw
• Tremors or seizures
• Difficulty walking or standing
• Kinked tail or spine

MBD is preventable through proper supplementation and UVB provision. Early-stage MBD can sometimes be reversed with veterinary treatment and corrected husbandry, but advanced cases cause permanent skeletal deformities.

Stuck Shed

Leopard geckos shed their skin every 4-8 weeks (more frequently when young). They usually eat their shed skin, so you may not see much evidence of shedding.

Stuck shed occurs when humidity is too low or the gecko is dehydrated or unhealthy. Stuck shed commonly affects:

• Toes (can constrict and cause toe loss if not removed)
• Tail tip
• Eyes (appears as a milky layer)

Prevent stuck shed by providing a humid hide. If you notice stuck shed, increase humidity in the humid hide and give your gecko a 15-20 minute soak in shallow lukewarm water. Gently remove loosened shed with a damp cotton swab. Never force shed removal, as this can tear skin.

Impaction

Impaction occurs when the digestive tract becomes blocked, usually by ingested substrate, insect exoskeletons, or other foreign material. Symptoms include:

• Lack of bowel movements for over a week
• Straining to defecate
• Bloated abdomen
• Lethargy and loss of appetite
• Dragging hind legs

Prevention is key: use solid substrates, ensure proper temperatures for digestion, and maintain hydration. Mild impaction may resolve with warm soaks and gentle belly massages, but severe cases require veterinary intervention and sometimes surgery.

Cryptosporidiosis (Crypto)

Crypto is a parasitic infection that causes chronic wasting, regurgitation, and eventually death. There is no cure, and it's highly contagious to other leopard geckos.

Symptoms include:

• Progressive weight loss despite eating ("stick tail")
• Regurgitation
• Diarrhea
• Lethargy

Always quarantine new geckos for at least 90 days and have fecal tests performed by a reptile vet before introducing them near other geckos. If crypto is diagnosed, the gecko should be isolated permanently and euthanasia may be the most humane option.

Tail Loss (Autotomy)

Leopard geckos can voluntarily drop their tails when threatened. While the tail will regenerate, the new tail will be stubbier, darker, and lack the original pattern.

Prevent tail loss by:

• Gentle handling, always supporting the body
• Minimizing stress and sudden movements
• Housing geckos individually (tail biting can occur in cohabitation)

A dropped tail is not a medical emergency, but ensure the wound stays clean and monitor for infection.

When to See a Vet

Seek veterinary care if you notice:

• Unexplained weight loss over 10% of body weight
• Refusal to eat for more than 2 weeks (adults) or 3 days (juveniles)
• Labored breathing or wheezing
• Discharge from eyes, nose, or mouth
• Lethargy or difficulty moving
• Blood in feces or urates
• Prolapsed tissue from cloaca
• Stuck shed around toes despite intervention

Find a reptile veterinarian before you need one. Not all vets are experienced with reptiles, so locate an exotic animal specialist in your area.

Handling and Temperament

Leopard geckos are famous for their docile, gentle temperament. They rarely bite and many become quite comfortable with regular handling.

Taming Your Gecko

New geckos need 1-2 weeks to settle into their enclosure before you begin handling. During this adjustment period, only disturb them for feeding and cleaning.

Once settled, begin handling gradually:

1. Days 1-3: Place your hand in the enclosure for a few minutes daily, allowing your gecko to investigate
2. Days 4-7: Gently stroke your gecko's back and sides
3. Week 2+: Scoop your gecko from underneath, supporting the entire body, and hold for 5-10 minutes

Always wash your hands before and after handling to prevent disease transmission (both ways). Handle your gecko over a soft surface like a bed or couch in case they jump.

Handling Tips

• Approach from the side, never from above (predators attack from above)
• Support the entire body, allowing them to walk from hand to hand
• Never grab the tail (risk of tail drop)
• Keep sessions short (10-15 minutes) to avoid stress
• Avoid handling during shedding or right after feeding
• Watch for stress signs: tail waving, vocalizations, attempts to flee

Leopard geckos don't crave interaction like mammals do. Handling is primarily for your enjoyment and for necessary health checks. Limit handling to a few times per week.

Personality Differences

Each leopard gecko has a unique personality. Some are bold and curious, readily approaching the glass when you enter the room. Others are shy and prefer to hide. These individual differences are normal and don't indicate poor care.

Younger geckos tend to be skittish and may vocalize or tail-wave when startled. Most calm down significantly with age and gentle, consistent handling.

Where to Buy a Leopard Gecko

Not all leopard geckos are created equal in terms of health and genetics. Where you acquire your gecko significantly impacts your experience.

Reputable Sources

Reptile expos: Expos allow you to meet breeders face-to-face, see the gecko in person, and ask questions about lineage and care. Look for breeders with clean setups and healthy-looking animals.

Online breeders: Many established breeders ship leopard geckos safely via overnight delivery. Research the breeder thoroughly, reading reviews and checking their reputation on forums like r/leopardgeckos.

Local breeders: Check classifieds like MorphMarket for breeders in your area. Meeting locally avoids shipping stress.

Avoid These Sources

Pet store chain animals: While not always unhealthy, chain store geckos often come from mass breeding facilities, may carry parasites, and staff often provide inaccurate care advice. If you do buy from a chain, quarantine thoroughly and have a fecal test done.

Wild-caught geckos: Leopard geckos are readily bred in captivity, so there's no reason to purchase wild-caught individuals, which are stressed, often parasitized, and difficult to acclimate.

Choosing a Healthy Gecko

Inspect any gecko before purchasing:

• Eyes: Clear, alert, responsive to movement
• Body condition: Plump tail, no visible ribs or hip bones protruding severely
• Skin: No stuck shed, wounds, or discoloration
• Vent: Clean, no prolapse or fecal staining
• Toes: All present with no constrictions from old shed
• Behavior: Alert and responsive, not lethargic

Ask the seller about feeding schedule, last shed, and parentage. Reputable breeders provide hatching date and feeding records.

Morphs and Pricing

Leopard geckos range from $30 for common morphs like "normals" to thousands of dollars for rare designer morphs. Popular morphs include:

• Normal: Wild-type yellow with black spots ($30-50)
• High Yellow: Brighter yellow with reduced spotting ($40-70)
• Tangerine: Orange coloration ($60-150)
• Albino varieties (Tremper, Bell, Rainwater): Lack black pigment ($80-200)
• Blizzard: Patternless white or yellow ($100-200)
• Enigma: Unique patterns but associated with neurological issues ($150-300)
• Black Night: Deep dark coloration ($300-800)
• Designer combos: Multiple traits combined ($200-500+)

For first-time owners, there's no advantage to expensive morphs beyond aesthetics. A $40 normal leopard gecko has the same care requirements and personality potential as a $400 designer morph.

Quarantine Protocol

Always quarantine new geckos for 90 days before introducing them to a room with other reptiles. During quarantine:

• House in a separate room if possible
• Use dedicated tools and dishes
• Handle quarantine animals last
• Have fecal tests performed at 30 and 60 days
• Monitor for signs of illness

This protocol prevents introducing parasites or diseases to your existing collection.

Final Thoughts

Leopard geckos represent the perfect intersection of beauty, hardiness, and manageability in the reptile world. With proper care, your leopard gecko can thrive for 15-20 years, providing decades of fascination as you observe their hunting behaviors, personality quirks, and stunning appearances.

The keys to success are simple: maintain proper temperatures with a reliable thermostat, provide a variety of gut-loaded and supplemented insects, use safe substrates, and give your gecko a secure environment with multiple hides. Avoid common pitfalls like cohabitation, loose substrates for juveniles, and inadequate supplementation.

Whether you're captivated by the classic wild-type appearance or drawn to the endless variety of designer morphs, leopard geckos offer something for everyone. They're quiet, clean, space-efficient, and their calm temperament makes them enjoyable for both observation and occasional gentle handling.

As you begin your journey with leopard geckos, continue learning from reputable sources, connect with the community through forums and social media groups, and don't hesitate to consult a reptile veterinarian when questions arise. The effort you invest in providing excellent care will be rewarded many times over by the joy of keeping these remarkable little lizards.

Welcome to the world of leopard gecko keeping. Your new companion is waiting.