What Do Leopard Geckos Eat? Complete Diet & Feeding Guide

Leopard geckos are insectivores with straightforward dietary needs, but getting the details right is critical for long-term health. A poorly fed leopard gecko can develop metabolic bone disease, obesity, or nutritional deficiencies that shorten its life significantly. This guide covers everything you need to know about feeding your leopard gecko — from staple insects to supplement schedules to troubleshooting feeding problems.

For a complete overview of leopard gecko husbandry, see our leopard gecko care guide.

Understanding Leopard Gecko Nutrition

Leopard geckos are strict insectivores — they eat bugs and nothing else. Unlike bearded dragons or blue tongue skinks, leopard geckos do not eat vegetables, fruit, or commercial pellet diets. Their digestive system is designed exclusively for processing animal protein and fat from insects.

This means the nutritional quality of your leopard gecko's diet depends entirely on two factors:

1. The type of insects you offer — not all feeders are created equal
2. How you prepare those insects — gut-loading and supplementation are non-negotiable

Best Feeder Insects for Leopard Geckos

Staple Feeders (70-80% of Diet)

These insects are nutritionally balanced enough to form the core of your gecko's diet:

Dubia Roaches — The gold standard feeder insect. High in protein (23%), low in fat (7%), excellent calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, and they don't smell, chirp, or climb smooth surfaces. Available in multiple sizes for geckos of all ages. If you can only pick one feeder, pick dubias.

Crickets — The most widely available feeder insect. Decent protein content (21%) and a reasonable Ca:P ratio when gut-loaded. Downsides: they smell, escape easily, chirp loudly, and can bite sleeping geckos if left uneaten in the enclosure. Always remove uneaten crickets.

Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL/Calciworms/Nutrigrubs) — Naturally high in calcium, making them an excellent staple that requires less supplementation. Lower in protein than dubias or crickets but a great rotational staple, especially for growing juveniles.

Treat Feeders (20-30% of Diet)

These are higher in fat or lower in nutritional value and should be fed in moderation:

Mealworms — Convenient, easy to keep, and readily available. However, they're higher in fat (13%) and have a tough chitin exoskeleton that's harder to digest. Fine as a regular part of the rotation but shouldn't be the only feeder.

Waxworms — Very high in fat (22%). Think of these as candy — leopard geckos love them, but they can cause obesity and food addiction if overfed. Limit to 2-3 per week as an occasional treat.

Superworms — Large, high-fat feeder suitable for adult geckos only. Their size and hard exoskeleton make them inappropriate for juveniles. Feed 2-3 per session as a treat, not a staple.

Hornworms — Excellent hydration (high water content), good nutrition, and geckos go crazy for them. Expensive and grow fast, but great as an occasional variety feeder or for encouraging reluctant eaters.

Insects to Avoid

• Wild-caught insects — pesticide risk, parasite risk
• Lightning bugs/fireflies — toxic and potentially fatal
• Centipedes or spiders — venom risk
• Ants — formic acid can harm your gecko

Gut-Loading: The Most Important Step

Gut-loading means feeding your insects a nutritious diet 24-48 hours before offering them to your gecko. The insects become vessels for delivering nutrients that they wouldn't otherwise contain in sufficient quantities.

What to Gut-Load With

Best gut-load foods:

• Dark leafy greens (collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens)
• Squash and sweet potato
• Carrots
• Commercial gut-load formulas (Repashy Bug Burger, Mazuri High Calcium Gut Loading Diet)

Avoid gut-loading with:

• Iceberg lettuce (no nutritional value)
• Citrus fruits (too acidic)
• Potatoes (raw nightshade family)
• Dog or cat food (too much protein, wrong nutrients)

Gut-loading is not optional. Un-gut-loaded insects are nutritionally hollow — you're essentially feeding your gecko empty calories.

Supplement Schedule

Even with proper gut-loading, feeder insects don't provide everything a leopard gecko needs. You must dust insects with supplements before feeding.

The Two-Supplement System

How to dust: Place a few insects in a plastic bag or cup, add a small pinch of supplement powder, and shake gently until the insects are lightly coated. They should look like they've been lightly dusted with powdered sugar — not caked in white powder.

Why Both Calcium Types?

• Calcium without D3 is the daily staple because leopard geckos synthesize some D3 from UVB exposure (if provided) and can overdose on D3 if supplemented too heavily
• Calcium with D3 ensures they get enough D3, especially if your setup doesn't include UVB lighting
• Keep a small dish of plain calcium powder in the enclosure at all times — many geckos will lick it voluntarily when they need extra calcium

Feeding Schedule by Age

Babies (0-6 months)

• Frequency: Daily
• Amount: As many appropriately-sized insects as they'll eat in 10-15 minutes
• Insect size: No longer than the space between the gecko's eyes
• Supplements: Calcium every feeding, D3 and multivitamin 2x/week

Juveniles (6-12 months)

• Frequency: Every other day
• Amount: 5-8 insects per feeding
• Insect size: Can gradually increase as the gecko grows
• Supplements: Calcium every feeding, D3 and multivitamin 2x/week

Adults (12+ months)

• Frequency: Every 2-3 days
• Amount: 5-7 large insects per feeding
• Insect size: No larger than the space between the eyes
• Supplements: Calcium every feeding, D3 and multivitamin 1x/week

Breeding Females

• Frequency: Every other day (increased to support egg production)
• Amount: As many as she'll eat, with extra calcium
• Supplements: Increase D3 to 2x/week, always keep calcium dish available

Feeding Tips and Best Practices

How to Feed

Tong feeding is the preferred method for most keepers. Use soft-tipped feeding tongs (not sharp metal tweezers) to offer insects one at a time. This gives you control over portion size, ensures every insect is dusted, and helps build trust with your gecko.

Bowl feeding works well with slower-moving feeders like dubia roaches or mealworms. Use a smooth-sided escape-proof bowl so insects can't crawl out.

Free-range feeding (releasing insects into the enclosure) encourages natural hunting behavior but makes it hard to track how much your gecko ate. Only use this with crickets, and remove any uneaten insects after 15 minutes.

When to Feed

Leopard geckos are crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk). The best feeding times are early evening when their lights are dimming or have just turned off. This aligns with their natural activity pattern.

Troubleshooting Common Feeding Problems

My Leopard Gecko Won't Eat

Refusal to eat can be caused by:

• Temperature too low — check that the warm hide is 88-92°F. Cold geckos can't digest food and will refuse it.
• Stress from new environment — new geckos often refuse food for 1-2 weeks. This is normal.
• Shedding — many geckos skip meals before and during shed cycles
• Ovulation/breeding season — adult males and females often reduce appetite in spring
• Illness — if appetite loss persists for 2+ weeks with weight loss, see a reptile vet

My Gecko Only Wants Waxworms

Waxworm addiction is real. These high-fat grubs are so palatable that some geckos refuse everything else after being offered them too frequently. The fix:

1. Stop offering waxworms completely
2. Offer staple insects (dubias, crickets) every other day
3. Remove uneaten insects after 15 minutes
4. A healthy adult gecko can safely fast for 1-2 weeks — hunger will eventually win
5. Once eating normally, limit waxworms to 1-2 per week maximum

My Gecko Is Getting Fat

Obesity is one of the most common health problems in pet leopard geckos. Signs include a very thick tail, visible fat deposits behind the front legs ("armpit bubbles"), and a rounded belly.

To address obesity:

• Reduce feeding frequency (every 3-4 days for adults)
• Switch to lower-fat feeders (BSFL, crickets instead of mealworms/superworms)
• Eliminate waxworms entirely
• Increase enclosure enrichment to encourage movement

Frequently Asked Questions

Can leopard geckos eat fruits or vegetables?

No. Leopard geckos are obligate insectivores and cannot properly digest plant matter. Their digestive tract is too short and lacks the necessary enzymes for processing vegetation. Stick exclusively to insects.

How long can a leopard gecko go without eating?

Healthy adult leopard geckos can go 2-4 weeks without food if they have adequate fat reserves in their tail. However, babies and juveniles should not fast for more than a few days. If an adult hasn't eaten in 2+ weeks and is losing weight, consult a reptile veterinarian.

Do I need to provide water if I feed juicy insects like hornworms?

Yes, always provide a shallow water dish regardless of diet. While hornworms and other high-moisture feeders contribute to hydration, a water dish ensures your gecko can drink whenever it needs to. Change the water daily.

How do I know if my feeder insects are the right size?

The standard rule is that feeder insects should be no longer than the space between your gecko's eyes. Feeding insects that are too large can cause choking, impaction, or regurgitation. When in doubt, go smaller.

Final Thoughts

Feeding a leopard gecko is simple once you establish the routine: gut-loaded staple insects, proper supplement dusting, and an age-appropriate schedule. The key investments are quality feeder insects and reliable supplements — these two things prevent the vast majority of nutritional problems. Vary the diet with 2-3 feeder species, keep a calcium dish in the enclosure, and monitor your gecko's body condition, and you'll have a healthy, well-fed leopard gecko for years to come.